The Artists' Club on Franz Liszt Square
I never knew Budapest before 1989. I got to know it after that great year zero in time to catch a glimpse of the old days. Two towns united-Buda to the west and Pest to the east with the River Danube flowing through the centre. I lived right here on Franz Liszt Square one winter, the winter I met Sonia, Valentin, Ana, Vladimir, Lajos and-I shivered -Kati. Ibolya had funding for research and lectures at the Liszt Academy and me and Dany came too but it was Sonia we were following. We were quite a gang.The centre of the city had a small international crowd-it still does-and I became a part of it. Elizabeth Town, or district VII as it is also known, had become a desert then, its Jewish population long disappeared or fled, its buildings abandoned, except for a few people here and there, like Lajos and his violin workshop, The Little Pipe bistro where Vladimir played piano, and the Kádár, the old Jewish restaurant where you can hear violin playing as you walk past but The Artists' Club here on Franz Liszt Square was my favourite. When we visited the first time, we were the only diners. I remembered the song they played there that winter. I was familiar with the tune, very familiar, but it was sung in Hungarian, Those Were The Days. I started humming the melody to myself as I sipped my coffee and looked across the rooftops of downtown. The sun was out and I could see the Danube glisten in the distance, the Buda hills beyond. Budapest was a diamond in the rough. It took effort, or an accident, to find her and when you found her, she was yours and you were hers forever. She was the heart of Europe but the thing about a heart is a heart can be broken. And the thing about diamonds? Diamonds are forever. I drifted back to the events nearly twenty years ago. I would never have predicted any of it.