Infra-apparel

By Richard Harrison Martin, Harold Koda, Costume Institute (New York, N.Y.)

Infra-apparel
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Infra-Apparel, the exhibition and the book that accompanies it, has had to search for its own name. There is not a signle world or descriptive phrase that fully signifies the phenomenon we seek to describe and the argument we are attempting to make. It is simplistic to offer our argument as structure disclosed, inside appearing on the outside, or externalization as a function of familiarity, yet all of these are approximations of parts of the argument. Jean Baudrillard has argued that fashion is exceptional within culture in its proclivity to propagate signs, some of substantive, others of scant meaning. The large signficance of the observation we make in Infra-Apparel through the exhibition and the publication in its introduction, many color illustrations, and five essays is the transaction that occurred from the eighteenth century to present between the intimate and personal and the social and public. Without consistent evolution, but with a fascinating persistence, clothing has sought to convey elements of boudoir privacy to the public domain. Morever, underwear can be perceived as the required interface between the body and clothing, but it can also constitute clothing's ultimate seduction. Function and finery meet with oppositional intensity in underwear and lingerie. Clothing is a principal means by which we negotiate between public and private realms.

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